To,
The designers of Parvati and Padma Patil’s Yule ball costumes, in hope that they see this and get some perspective on Indian clothing.
Since the advent of Cinema, Costumes and jewelleries have played a major part in narration, as a tool to tell the story- The story of an individual’s being, which transforms fictional characters into real believable personalities. They narrate the parts which are essential to the portal but cannot be directly communicated; such as the backgrounds of the characters, the time period of the setting, the geographic influence on the culture and so on. However, increasingly this relevance has climbed out of the big screens into our daily lives as we, struggling to find a way to express our individualities, rely on clothes to do so for us.
And so, with the pertinence of style, begins the quest for inspiration for which movies become a fertile mining ground. Here, I have attempted to dig through few such tunnels, some going down the route of wearable fashion while others spiral into the extravaganza of Indian culture. The latter, though not yielding any direct inspiration for your everyday wardrobe, is a wholesome representation of what Indian elaborateness is all about. It exhibits the brilliance of Indian fabrics, embroidery, famed colour palette and most remarkably the ornate jewellery. In this context, I pick my favourites from both period and contemporary costumes (from relatively recent movies, 1995 and later).
Disclaimer: These costumes are a reflection of my individual aesthetic which may or may not coincide with that of critiques. Additionally my preferences are completely based on the visual appeal of these costumes, having little to nothing to do with the suitability of the said costumes to the mood, plot or historical accuracy. As such this is a highly subjective list, please read it so.
Best Period Costumes
1. Jodha Akbar
Where do I even begin! From the rich fabrics, woven brocade textiles, dainty beaded handiwork and intricate gold embroidery to the vibrancy of colours and literal priceless-ness of the jewels, everything is exquisite. The bright colour palette of Jodha’s Lehenga-choli and sheer flowing Chunnis is nicely balanced by a more sombre, but equally beautiful, creams and beiges of Akbar. Both looks are complimented by jewellery, which is unrivalled in Bollywood- fight me! The visual appeal of Neeta Lulla’s breathtaking costumes does indeed reflect grandeur that is of royal proportions. Overall, like the movie, costumes too, portray a picture historically inaccurate in its exaggeration, but nonetheless a delight to look at.
Style Inspiration- Jodha Akbar being a period drama, obviously, does not provide much inspiration for everyday outfits. However, in a bridal look, much can be replicated from the silhouette and drapery style to the colour combinations. Additionally, if you are Ambani enough to afford the jewellery…
2. Devdas
In a Sanjay Leela Bhansali film, one goes in with high expectations for grandeur, even so Devdas leaves you spell bound with its sheer opulence. And the costumes designed by Abu Jani, Sandeep Khosla and, yes once again, Neeta Lulla play a big part of that. Each costume sets a high standard for accurate research, distinctive design and painstakingly detailed labour. From Devdas’s suave vintage suits in his oxford-return look to white Bengali dhotis for later scenes; Chandramukhi’s glamorized silk and brocade sarees for her courtesan portrayal to mulmul skirts for her at-home look; and Paro’s Dhakai cotton sarees to a unique drape for her married look- all are a study in contrast.
Style Inspiration- Like Jodha Akbar, Devdas too hardly has any examples for wearable fashion but when dressing elaborate for an event, certain stylistic and colour palette inspirations can certainly be drawn. And if you have financial resources and the stamina to carry 30kgs of fabric, nothing like it!
3. Action Replay
Even before the release, headlines were springing up regarding Rai’s over-the-top costume changes in the movie, and well they didn’t disappoint. Not only her, but Kumar (especially in his makeover sequence) and Dhupia too, did not fail to amaze with their vibrant looks. While some might find the retro bling over-the-top, it conveys the happy-go-lucky vibe of the era perfectly- A vibrant mix of 70s cliché, which even if exaggerated are fun to watch. It’s a visual feast with flared sleeves, bell bottoms, waistcoats and headscarves, over-sized sunglasses, wide belts, platform boots saturated in trippy colours making up the funky 70s look.
Style Inspiration- Unlike other movies of the period genre, Action Replay does exhibit several wearable wardrobe choices. They might seem bit over-the-top to recreate completely, taking selected elements will add a 70s pop to your everyday look. And with trends like flared bottoms and bell sleeves making a comeback, the time is ripe to gather inspiration from those hot pink sunglasses and white knee-high boots.
4. Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam
Once again the combo of Leela Bhansali and Neeta Lulla does not fail to fulfill our expectations. The romantic mood of the dressing is balanced perfectly by the vibrant and yet soft colour choices on the sombre desert sands of Thar. The Gujarati embroideries, mirror work and bandhni on the ghagara-cholis not only embellish but also reflect the location-al setting of the film. Initially Rai stuns in these vibrant ghagara-cholis, while later she looks equally resplendent, if not more sophisticated in cotton sarees and deep neck blouses.
Style Inspiration- one thing this movie did right was balancing bright hues without making them look over-the-top or garish. This can be emulated especially while dressing up in ethnic wear. Also the kundan jewellery and the light beaded necklaces make for traditional accessories that are not too expensive or ornate.
5. Zubeidaa
I truly am surprised how this movie never makes it to any of the Bollywood costumes’ lists. Just as the film is a perfect example of period cinema, so are its costumes of vintage fashion. A visual depiction of Indian royalty that does it justice with right amount of grandeur mixed with ease of daily wearable but sophisticated fashion without it being garishly elaborate. The pastel chiffon sarees of vintage polka-dot or floral prints paired with simple pearls and meticulously styled-hair, makes you nostalgic for 40s high society.
Style potential- I do not know if anyone said sarees don’t become outdated but someone should have, because sarees don’t become outdated. You can draw inspiration from this movie for saris to wear at any and all kind of events.
Best Contemporary Costumes In Hindi Movies
1. Dil To Pagal Hai
Yet another gem of a film from costumes’ point of view which no one talk about. Just as Neeta Lulla is the queen of period Indian wear, contemporary fashion is Manish Malhotra’s empire. Dil to Pagal Hai’s costumes are part of this expanding empire only, which astound us even 23 years later, with their fashion-forwardness. What probably was the first attempt at full blown athleisure fashion in Bollywood was done incredibly well. Even the more over-the-top outfits full of bling seen in the song ‘Le Gayi’ or other stage performances in the movies, make sense in 2020.
Style inspiration- Be it the sporty co-ords and metallic bralettes worn by Karisma or the Indian kurta sets with sheer midriffs worn by Madhuri, nearly everything can be imitated without looking outdated.
2. Aisha
The movie might have been a disappointment; its costumes sure were not. Aisha, like Clueless, is an adaptation of Jane Austen’s Emma, and like its counterpart was a phenomenon in movie fashion, influencing stylistic trends for years to come. It was a perfect blend of contemporary bold statements on the lines of Clueless and an ode to 19th century setting of the novel. Collaborating with names like Christian Dior, Chanel, Salvatore Ferragamo, Aisha defined the everyday high fashion for so many. Her hair-band and hat collection, a close contender to Blair Waldorf’s, gave us wardrobe envy. Aisha’s more classical branded silhouettes are offset by Ira Dubey’s more quirky looks and Lisa Haydon’s understated character too, impresses in her Herve Leger dresses.
Style Inspiration- The clothes worn by Aisha can be best described in one word as Corporate Chic and hence give you a perfect look-book to imitate for everyday, quirky office outfits.
3. Guzaarish
Just as Bhansali takes a different setting and backdrop for Guzaarish (as compared to his other movies), so does Sabyasachi for his costumes. Both, moving away from grand Indian styles for which they are known, make an attempt and succeed in creating more contemporary scenery.
The Victorian tinge to the contemporary costumes fits in so well with the modern day yet reclusive setting, as Rai moves around the vintage furniture. The floor length full skirts demonstrate the vibrant mix of Indic patterns which is characteristic of Sabyasachi, toned down to look more contemporary by net and lace layering.
Style inspiration- This movie demonstrated correctly what an individualistic style looks like, how one can embrace the vintage styles without looking outdated. My personal favourites are the rustic earrings that go so well with Rai’s boho-gypsy vibe and the full rose in her loose braid matching the matte lips.
4. Ram Leela
Another of Bhansali’s larger-than-life movies, this time designed for, by Anju Modi whose strength of working with Indian textiles and knowledge of Gujarati crafts contribute to the authenticity of the look. Though it’s a contemporary setting with modern silhouettes the vintage textiles add a flavour of Gujarati traditionalism. The skirts are rather plain with minimal embroidery but their multiple layering and bright cholis with brocade borders prevent the outfits from coming off as too simple.
Style inspiration- Unlike other contemporary movies, this one is fit to gather inspiration form when mulling over ethnic outfits for everyday but festive looks. Unlike period costumes, the flowing ghagaras skirts worn by Leela do not overdo the embroidery or embellishments.
5. Dil Dhadkne Do
Did someone say casual chic? Like Aisha, Dil Dhandkne Do demonstrates contemporary high fashion. Just as the film was stylish, so were its costumes. From Ranveer Singh and Farhan Akhtar to Anil Kapoor and Shefali Shah, all were impeccably dressed in effortlessly posh outfits, but my favourite are the wide legged pants and jumpsuits worn by Priyanka Chopra. Her Summer-Chic style is not only highly relevant today but also sets goals for comfortable and breathable outfits.
Style inspiration- If anytime soon you are embarking on a cruise trip, you do not need to think twice about picking up outfits straight from the screen, complete with practically considerate accessory choices of wide brimmed hats and over-sized sun glasses.
Few other honorable mentions
Fashion
The style though contemporary is not exactly wearable. Nevertheless, the ramp fashion is immensely satisfying to look at.
Mai Hoon Na
Many may cringe at the forcefully ripped outfits worn by Amrita Rao but it gave India a peek into grunge fashion (though in need of a major styling upgrade). Besides do we even need to comment on Sen’s flowing chiffon saris paired with knotted blouses and Khan’s trench coat and plaid scarf combo.
Badhaai Ho
Be it the perfect work outfit or a dress for social gathering, Sanya Malhotra did it right in Badhaai ho. Distinct Indian prints with loose silhouettes and blanket scarves, paired with unique silver earrings looked effortlessly chic and comfortable to move around in.
Here’s to some creative stimulus to fill up that closet! because “I like my money right where I can see it- hanging in my closet.”- Carrie
